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Troubleshooting: Zap Overheating or Connected to Wrong Port

Zap overheating or burning smell? You may have connected to HAN/RJ45 port. Disconnect immediately. How to check damage & get help.

Updated over a week ago

โš ๏ธ EMERGENCY: Device Getting Hot

If your Zap is getting hot to the touch:

  1. DISCONNECT IMMEDIATELY - Both from meter and USB power

  2. DO NOT TOUCH if too hot - wait for cooling

  3. CHECK FOR:

    • Burning smell

    • Discoloration of plastic

    • Device too hot to hold for more than 5 seconds

If any of these signs are present, your device may be damaged. Do not reconnect.

Common Cause: Wrong Port Connection

You May Have Connected to a HAN Port (RJ45)

This is the #1 cause of overheating. HAN ports output 24-36V while Zap expects 5V from P1 ports.

How to tell if you connected to HAN instead of P1:

  • Cable fit loosely in the port

  • Port was ethernet-sized (RJ45) not telephone-sized (RJ12)

  • Port labeled "HAN" not "P1"

  • Device got hot within minutes of connection

What Happens When Connected to HAN Port

  1. Immediate: Device receives 24-36V instead of expected 5V

  2. Within minutes: Internal components overheat

  3. Result: Permanent damage to voltage regulator and ESP32

Checking If Your Device Is Damaged

Safe Testing Procedure

  1. Let device cool completely (at least 30 minutes)

  2. Connect ONLY USB-C power (do not connect to meter)

  3. Check if device powers on

    • Blue LED should light up

    • Device should broadcast WiFi network for setup

  4. Monitor temperature

    • Should stay cool to touch

    • If heating up again, disconnect immediately

Signs of Permanent Damage

  • Continues to overheat with just USB power

  • Burning smell persists

  • No LED activity

  • Cannot find WiFi network "ZAP-XXXXXX"

If You Need External Power (USB-C)

Some situations require external power even with correct P1 connection:

When External Power Is Needed

  • Your P1 port doesn't provide power (common in Norway)

  • Meter located far from WiFi (power helps maintain connection)

  • Daisy-chaining multiple P1 devices

Safe External Power Setup

  1. Use standard USB-C cable

  2. Any phone charger works (5V, 1A minimum)

  3. Power banks are acceptable for testing

  4. For permanent installation in shared spaces:

    • Check with building management

    • Use certified power adapters only

    • Ensure proper ventilation

Power Consumption

  • Normal operation: ~1-2W

  • Device should remain cool to touch

  • If using power bank: 10,000mAh lasts ~1 week

Before Reconnecting After Issues

Verification Checklist

  1. Confirm you have P1/RJ12 port (not HAN/RJ45)

    • 6 pins, not 8

    • Telephone-jack size, not ethernet size

  2. Test device with USB power only first

  3. Ensure P1 port is activated by utility

  4. Use only the included RJ12 cable

Do NOT:

  • Use any adapters (RJ45-to-RJ12)

  • Force connections

  • Connect if device previously overheated

  • Ignore warning signs (heat, smell, loose fit)

Getting Help

For Damaged Devices

If your Zap was damaged by incorrect connection:

  1. Document the issue (photos of port, device condition)

  2. Note exactly what happened

  3. Request return/replacement

We understand these connection differences can be confusing and will work with you on a solution.

For Power Setup Questions

If you need help with external power setup:

  • Describe your meter location

  • Available power sources nearby

  • Building restrictions

  • We can suggest appropriate solutions

Prevention Tips

  1. Always verify port type before connecting

  2. Read compatibility guide first

  3. When in doubt, send photos to support

  4. Never force connections

  5. Test with USB power first if unsure

Remember: A few minutes of verification can save your device. The difference between P1 and HAN ports is not just about data compatibility - it's about protecting your device from damage.

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